hey Ladeeeeee

Tuk tuk ladeee?
So, I'm in Phenom Phen, capital of Cambodia. This is an incredibly rough city. No worries, I'm safe. Its more related to the history of this country and city. There is so much and if you want to know more (its so recent) I suggest reading about it.

Since Siem Reap...
Sada and I had a great few days enjoying the Angkor Wat ancient temples. Amazing how big and how beautifully these Buddhist and Hindu influenced temples were. Many date back to the 12th century and are a true testament to how creative and beautiful human expression can be.
We enjoyed the company of some ex-pats and some other travelers. Its a very touristy place, but still very enjoyable because it is so difficult to get here, it attracts a different kind of visitor.

We took the bus from Siem Reap to Phenom Phen. Wow! It was about 7 hours long, with decent roads, but the bus broke down 4 times. The first time the electricity stopped working, then the door wouldn't open then I think we blew up a tire (we pushed) and I stopped paying attention after that. It was a ride from hell. We stopped in a few small village towns which was great because I'm sure some of the kids we interacted with have never seen "westerners". I made a few small children cry, but a lot more laugh, teaching them some hand slapping games.
We finally arrived in Phenom Phen and we were utterly shot. Like, cant take it anymore, don't ask me to get in your tuk tuk, get out of my face hot tired and exhausted state. So, theres men everywhere asking to give you rides in their tuk tuk. And they all want to bring you to the Killing fields because it makes the most money for them. So, really, we get off this bus after 7 hours of no air conditioning, being in the last seat on the bus, and some guy asks us if we want to go to the killing fields.
Ha.
We end up at a very very nice hotel - for 20 bucks a night, with air con, and all the international tv we can handle. Showered and fed, all is well.

We've been exploring this city for a few days and its amazing. The recent history of mass genocide and this city being emptied for 45 months due to the Khmer Rouge Regime is so intense. You can see how much the people suffered here. And are still suffering. They work so hard to make such little money. But as a tourist, it really wears on you. As a tourist you are constantly being asked to take tuk tuk rides even if you are crossing the street. You are constantly being asked for money or to buy something. Today I was disgusted with this mother. She was in her 20s and had one child about 7 or 8 years old asking for money, another under the age of one running around on the street and sidewalk using him as an excuse to beg for money. I hated watching how she handled this child. It really bothered me deeply. I don't know how you could help her. I really feel terrible for all of those suffering and in need, but once you start to give, those in need will take it all from you.

In Siem Reap I went to the Children's Hospital and gave blood. It was a good experience. I went on a recommendation from my friend Ginger. It is safe to give blood and the lab tech that poked me did a decent job. She recaped the needle which I told her was a very bad idea, but they just dont have quite the same standards as we do. I learned that many children suffer from Dengue Fever and come in in shock and need transfusions.

Later in the day I visited another hospital called Kantha Bopha. This amazing Swiss man, "Dr. Beatocello" came to work in Cambodia in the 70s, and ended up staying. He has created 4 hospitals and his crazy dream of providing health care to this country has come true. This hospital was far more impressive than many clinics that I have been to in the US.He puts on a concert every Saturday night, by playing his cello for tourists. I had wonderful French company, and met some other amazing travelers. I hope they were able to donate blood. The theater we visited was amazing. He asks them for money and blood donations. He moved me to tears. He showed a short film about his work and how many children this hospital helps. It was incredible and inspiring. It only takes one person and a dream. If you are passionate about something and you really want it to happen, it will happen. It will take work and dedication, but I truly believe you can make your dreams come true.

So... today we visited S-21. A concentration camp from the Khmer Rouge Regime. It was comparable to Hitler's actions. Except this was far more recent. Many Cambodians were tortured and killed in this school turned prison in the late 70s. All of them were photographed as they entered the "reeducation camp" and many of their mutilations captured on film. There were many bones and skulls on display.
The part that was so disturbing about it though was that it was "touchable". The year 1979 is the year of my birth so it is very real to me. Unlike other wars before my life time, I can imagine this place 30 years ago. The floor is still stained with blood, the walls are there to touch, the skulls and bones are just set out. I think the worst thing, or most real scary feeling I had today was when I walked down the stairs at the museum and went the wrong way. I ended up on the opposite stairwell and there was a mound of clothes. The clothes of the prisoners that were all killed there. It was so horrible, because the museum was the place of torture and deaths. It was the kind of situation w here you could just touch these things or take them and it wasn't so sterilely preserved.

The part about this whole massacre is that it just seems like a Pol Pot was a madman. I'm not going to try to explain the history because it is still a bit confusing to me. The chronology is just difficult to explain with French independence and anti-Vietnamese feelings and then just the plain psychoticness of thinking that everyone is against you. This country is still suffering badly and is trying to revive itself. It will take some time.

Tomorrow I fly back to Bangkok and then off to Japan. I'm very happy to have visited this place, and I am very happy to leave. I am looking forward to visiting my friend Ken in Osaka. Ken and I met in a hostel room in Prague. We celebrated his birthday and I was impressed with his Led Zep guitar playing. I'm excited to have him show me around and be out of tourist-landia.

I want to get some more photos up for you all to enjoy, if I can I will. Perhaps I will have a few minutes in Bangkok. There are some amazing shots of the vest/bellbottom suits that Sada and I had hand tailored for us. They are "same same but different". I think they are hilarious, but it really didn't turn too many head over here. The pattern is outrageous, and will for sure be worn on many occasion in San Francisco.

Much love to you all. I'm staying positive and healthy.