Wednesday, June 25, 2008

positively buoyant!

Yesterday was epic. I'm just gonna write a little to help me remember it. It was so beautiful. I woke up and had breakfast on top of the hotel's roof that I stayed at. I love chapati, and the view was awesome. I met up with Nanette and Dula. Nanette is a friend of my friend and soon to be teacher at UCSF School of Nursing. Nanette is American but has been living abroad for some time and is now running a program called TZVIA to help educate students in the area. The house is in Bububu which is a little north of Stone Town on Zanzibar. Dula is Tanzanian and is awesome, more about him in a bit.
So Nanette took me to visit one of her friends/kids she helps out, Abduli. He was paralyzed in a swimming accident two years ago and is now living as a quadriplegic. We spent some time with him in his home with his mom and family. They spoke really good English and I was inspired by his spirit to survive. He is desperately thin, but it was nice to be able to do a little teaching about bed sores and encourage him to eat protein. It was quite an introduction and a positive experience, but so real. Its hard to think that anyone really has it tough till you see the perspective of someone who is truly a warrior. Abduli is 17 years old and his mom helps care for him. His mother is also pregnant and has a full plate with the other children and family. Check out this website to learn more.
After that we went to a local medicine shop and met a traditional healer. He mixes all these spices for ailments. I learned that many people still believe in Satan and evil spirits causing actual physical difficulties. I have always wanted to visit one of those places, but was concerned with the language and cultural barrier. This guy was great though because he was really into teaching and spoke English.
Nanette took me to have some amazing soup, called Rambrosia (sp?) that is typically only consumed by females because it makes you girly. Ha, the coconut was delicious.
We headed back to Bububu and met up with Dula and Danielle. Danielle is an American who is helping out by volunteering. She has been here for a month and is teaching English. I sat in on one of the English classes. I was impressed with the student's English and we played hangman. I spoke to a few kids about health and HIV.
Dula took me around the property which is right on the beach. He showed me how the Mangroves grow and where the old railroad tracks were. I put my feet in the Indian Ocean and he laughed at me saying that all the wzungos (white people) have to put their feet in the ocean when we arrive. Its true.
I had some fresh coconut and we had a traditional dinner and then went back into Stone Town to have some drinks at this bar which was all banana trees and coconut trees and sand. It was fantastic because its all hidden and mostly no tourists. But, the best part of the day was when one of Dula's friends - Aboo's (sp?) pet Black monkey named Cobra fell asleep on my lap. She was really sweet (probably because she was really tired). I was petting her and she was holding my hand with her little paw. Incredible. I don't know why but Aboo put a watch on her butt. They do love each other, and I have strong feelings about animal poaching and abuse, but there was some serious love connection between these two.
We finished the night with an amazing walk on the beach with Danielle, Dula and Sheedy. What a wonderful place!
I just got out of the pool at Tembo (Elephant) Hotel. I'm getting my PADI Scuba certification. I'm going diving tomorrow in the Indian Ocean. I'm very excited, but I feel a little bad that the money I'm spending on this could send a few children to good schools. I will be donating more money and volunteering more in the future. There is no way not to want to teach or support flourishing programs when you can see the smiles on faces when they are learning.
I'm doing really well and I miss you all!

Monday, June 23, 2008

Internet sucks, but at least there is power

Hi!
I'm writing to yall from Zanzibar. The internet sucks here, but they just got their power back after 4 weeks. I guess the guy who rigged the electrical system died and no one else knew how to fix it or get the parts because the guy made it himself.
Anyway its back, but dial up is just painful.
I'm so happy to be here. This past week was incredible! It was like living a dream.
Jenny and I met up with her kid brother Moshi (she knows him from Nwala when she was working in the Peace Corps down there). He doesn't really speak any English, or at least just as much Swahili as I do. He's about 16 (no official birthday recorded so Jenny took him to establish a birth date and all that stuff just recently).
So, last Monday we took a Dala Dala to Arusha and went to the UN to check out the Rwanda massacre trials. It was interesting. There was a viewing room and you just go in and listen in with headphones. They were actually taking testimony from someone in the Hague. We went to one of the huge markets in Arusha and then went to Jen's besti Tait's house. We met up with all the guys who were going on the safari with us. There were 2 Peace Corps volunteers and 2 of their friends visiting. They were great kids. Ethan and Dylan are teaching in Tanzania, and John and Culli were here to party and see the Big 5.
We got hooked up with a bit of a cheaper safari. We weren't sure what that meant at first, but we figured it out. We had a suped up Dala Dala instead of one of those Land Rovers. It was actually great because there were 7 of us and this thing had a pop top and it was comfortable.
We went down to Lake M? and camped at this interesting little spot in the middle of town. It was weird having other people set up tents for us, but that's what you pay for I guess. We then headed into this National Park, and it proceeded to blow my mind.
There were all the animals you could ever hope to see. We were 10 feet from these two elephants. They just look at you with these prehistoric eyes and go walking along. We saw twigas or giraffes, one of my favorite animals growing up. They were so elegant! We watched hippos and monkeys and pink flamingos and wildebeests and even lions! It was truly amazing.
We partied a bit with our guides ( had two drinks while watching prostitutes hit on the boys) at the Scorpion bar near our campsite.
The next morning we had a delicious breakfast (they cook all your meals and they were awesome) and took off towards the Serengeti. We drove to a Masai village and stopped to see these tribal people who really have it figured out. They live like they have for thousands of years - off the land - herding cattle and goats. They drink the milk and blood of their animals (without killing them). The funny thing about these people is that they have tourists stop at this village and they put on some what of a show for a fee. They also sell their jewelry and handicrafts to those who have stopped. I danced with some of the women and went into one of their dung homes. I have great photos, I just don't know if I can get them up with this connection.
We also went to the Olduvai Gorge. This is where they found footsteps of some of the earliest hominids. You look out over this gorge where three rivers used to come together and you can just feel the millions of years of the earth. There were about 3 species of hominids that lived together at the same time. Simply fascinating.
After that, (like that wasn't enough) we went into the Serengeti and saw even more crazy animals. It was magical.
We camped and there, and were given strict instructions not to leave the campsite because of the animals. We didn't have to leave because as it got dark the hyenas came out. They were huge, and slightly scary. They were only about 10 feet away from where we were.
In the morning we did more driving, and ended up busting part of the wheel well/axel. It was destroyed, so we were lucky enough to be at the campsite. It could have been bad being on the side of the road, but we were with all of our gear and had an amazing pizza lunch. So we just all got drunk and played cards.
Our driver Peter found a way to get us to Ngorogoro Crater and we camped again. This time there were Zebras 10 feet from the campsite. I fell asleep to the sound of them pulling up grass and eating it.
The crater itself is amazing. You look down into this 23 kilometer old volcano that basically fell in. There are all of the same animals I mentioned above except giraffes because there aren't tall trees there. We saw a heard of wildebeests and buffalo. And some more lions. The ostritchs were what were really amazing.
After all of that game driving we had had enough and headed back to Moshi.

Wow... It was like a dream to see those animals and really feel the land of the Serengeti. A huge thank you to Jenny for setting it up.

I spent the last two days in Dar with Jen and some of her friends. It was great. Also, more mentionable, we went to visit Moshi's Dad in a very poor community outside of Dar. Actually it was a really nice little community, but I don't think they had electricity. We were warmly welcomed into their one room home and all of the little children came out ot look at us whities. They fed us ugali and fanta and enjoyed the conversation that I could understand.
On the way back - (sorry Jenny, this story is just too funny not to tell) we were on a dala dala and Jenny "had the need". So I suppose you can just go into anyone's house in Africa and use the choo. Out of control. So she runs into this woman's house on the side of the road - she asked permission first of course - while I played with some stunned kids outside on the main road. Everyone is wondering what two white girls are doing (and yes Dad it was safe). Jenny was taking a long time and I was wondering what was going on. She comes out wearing one of the woman's kangas. So turns out - Jenny had gotten her pants wet from a bucket in the bathroom. At least she didn't shit on them, but it was one of those embarrassing hysterical moments.

So now I am in Zanzibar. I am going to volunteer with a clinic in Bububu with a friend of a friend from UCSF School of Nursing. I'm excited. This town gets a bit annoying with the tourist harassment, but I just say Mambo and smile and keep walking. They were filming a Bollywood movie with a zipline which was fun to watch Indian dudes and cranes.

I'm off to explore some more and see some of the local music.
Miss you all - wish you could be here!
Much love,
Lisa

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Rombo

Hi everyone,
I'm feeling much better. I don't think I've ever experienced that much pain before - besides a broken heart- I'm happy my esophogeal ulcers are resolving. Careful with the Doxy folks!
I just got back from a lovely weekend in a village about 2 hours from here. We went to Rombo, to visit a friend of Jenny's from the Peace Corps. Megan had been assigned to that village and she returned with a few of her friends to help create a documentary about HIV/AIDS. I got to spend the weekend at their posh rented place. I got some insight on how a documentary is filmed and the masterminds behind it.
Jenny and I took a bus (which I really enjoy doing) from Moshi to Rombo and meet up with Ryan, Keri, Josh, Breezy and Megan. It was funny because they all had lived in California so we had a friend or two in common. It is a bit small when you talk about California burritos, night clubs in LA and skiing in Lake Tahoe. I was shocked by all of the equipment they had brought with them to film. I was also really impressed with the footage they showed us when we first arrived. We saw some images of a funeral they attended with women sobbing as well as a lot of film of kids. There was also a ton of film of Josh teasing Breezy. Breezy, you're such a good sport! Their raw cuts were fantastic and I'm looking forward to seeing the documentary. If you'd like to check it out http://www.africa.gettingwordout.com/
Saturday was fantastic! We went to this church and were welcomed very warmly by everyone there. We had some tea and enjoyed some African type donut things (which I was stoked didn't hurt too much on the way down).
It was a really special moment to be invited into this small rock built room which was being used for a meeting. I'm not entirely sure which faith they were, but you could most relate it to Evangelical with the local tribe spirit. They sang and danced to some traditional songs, which were beautiful! Then there were some people speaking in tongues and laughing or crying because of the holy spirit's influence. We introduced ourselves and they said that we were a gift and they appreciated us being there. It was odd though, as there are Keri and Ryan with huge expensive cameras in the faces of these women and men singing. I think its an amazing trait or talent to be able to use the camera and get into those situations and not be afraid of filming. I took some photos and I will try to get them online as soon as I can.
We spend the rest of the afternoon in the grass with orphan children. Breezy, Keri and I taught some kids how to play frisbee and keep away games with a plastic lid to one of those 5 gallon jugs. They enjoyed it maybe only a little more than we did.
I really enjoyed going to the village. Its a bit different than here, but its all the same appreciation for people and kindness. I'm learning how to slow down a bit and be idle. Its nice.

Tomorrow we are going to head out to Arusha and then on safari.
Jen's 'brother' Moshi (which means smoke in kiswahili and is also the name of this city) is arriving shortly and were gonna hang out and hopefully work on his English and my Swahili.

This sweet mama dog keeps coming up to the office and being sweet looking for food. She wont be getting fed by Jenny for the next two weeks why she is away.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

NPO

Hi,

How are you all? I'm checking email a bit more than I thought I would, and I don't really mind as this is my "holiday" and I can do what I want with my time.

I'm actually not feeling well. And, I've diagnosed myself with an esophageal ulcer related to the doxycycline I'm taking to prevent malaria. Shit! It hurts. It feels like an internal cut where every time I eat or swallow it feels like someone is rubbing sandpaper in my esophagus. I made the mistake of taking the pill too close to bed time and it has now eaten away at my innards. Its been hurting for 3 days. I'm partly to blame as I have been drinking a bit more of coffee and coca cola here. But, damn, no bueno. I can not continue to take that medication.



Yesterday was big! Jenny and I went to the street with Mama Nurse (Devotha) to see some street kids- check up on them and give some mebendazole - a de-worming medication. We walked around Moshi and met up with a few really cute kids that led us to this room where about 16 of them were staying. They were all under the age of about 15. We walked in this room that had 4 bunks with some destroyed foam. The kids were happy to see Mama Nurse and Jenny. They chatted, and were silly like little boys are. Their scraps and cuts were attended to and we encouraged hand washing. This room was rented for them by (I hope this is right) a doctor who was somehow related to the Center. Its not a good option, but perhaps better than sleeping on the street. A few of the kids were messed up, most likely glue and booze. It was pretty sad. Its not like I didn't expect to see something like that though. Many of the kids were orphaned or ran away; Jenny's program works with them to establish a relationship and get them a better life through education and ultimately trust.



The afternoon was also pretty heavy. Jenny and I met up with Neema and her mom, Happiness at the hospital. This totally violates all HIPPA rules. Neema is a student of Jen's best friend and so she asked us to help them out. I guess if they see white people at the hospital it helps things move along sometimes. Anyway, Happiness went to the eye clinic related to a "cyst" on her eye ball. She came out with the script and I looked at it and it said squamous cell carcinoma. Now, I don't speak any Swahili nor do I know the medical system here. All I know is that it looked bad, and it broke my heart to see her suffer.

Neema and I chatted for a few hours while her mom got the ultrasound prior to the surgery. She told me that she is 17 and wants to make a better life for herself. She knows all about computer programs and she wants to be a secretary. Now this girl is smart! I was really impressed with her English and her smile. She really wants to succeed and become someone. I know that she will! I gave her a lot of praise that she will get to where she wants and to not stop at just being a secretary. I really do think she can go far. The difficult thing is that it is just her and her mom, and after this major surgery, it wont be easy for either of them.



Its a difficult contrast when you go to the bank and take out enough money for your safari in the Serengeti and know that that money could pay for many years of education for a child like Neema. What is selfish? I could debate that coming to Africa and taking this trip is selfish, simply on the cost of airfare. However, I think its these experiences that make life richer and I can think about a bigger way to help the earth as well as human beings. Its like that saying where there were all the starfish washed up on the shore and its an impossible task to throw them all back in the ocean. Why bother? Well, because it matters to the ones that you do help.



There is so much beauty and devastation side by side here. As there is in all parts of the world. I have to say I'm really looking forward to my esophagus feeling better. For you nurses that are reading this I'm making myself NPO for the rest of the day.



Other than that, my love to you all!



Oh... one other thing, we watched Shaka Zulu last night and let me say, I'm really getting the African experience. David Hasselhoff, wooo, so hot.

Monday, June 9, 2008

Hamjambo!

Hi everyone,

I've arrived in Moshi Tanzania. Besides a killer tube ride to Heathrow Airport it was relatively easy to travel here. The layover in Ethiopia was really interesting.

I flew into Addis Ababa Airport. It was really different; first of all it was my first time stepping onto African soil, and secondly the language uses a lot of characters. The airport had about 5 gates and complete with prayer room for men and a separate one for women. After wandering around looking at what looked like a bad strip mall from 1982, I was back on the plane to Mt. Kili.
Jenny, an old friend from 'back east', met me at the airport. She has been here in Moshi for almost a year working with street kids. I've been hanging with her all day today at the centre and meeting the kids. I just sat in on an HIV/AIDS education class with about 15 15 year old boys. They were asking about HIV transmission and how you can wear a condom, but you might still get "fluids" on your balls.
This weekend was fantastic, almost dream like. We went out on Friday night; her favorite taxi driver picked us up and we were heading to this bar called the watering hole. We are driving down a dirt road with two huge walls on either side. This is all looking ominous but interesting. We arrive at this so called bar with a guard out front. He is looking for us on the "list" or if Jenny's name is on one of the plastic id cards in the stack. Kinda humorous. We went in and it was a gorgeous spot right on a flowing river with a beautiful bar worked into the rocks and a many big decks and all. A few of Jenny's friends met us out and we had some drinks. It was fantastic. I've tried a few of the Tanzanian beers and they might not compare to London's, but the Tusker is really great.
I'm impressed with this town. It is one of the richest in Tanzania. There are a few tourists here that climb Kili and start safaris from here. But the people have been so friendly and welcoming. I am trying my hardest to learn some Kiswahili. I had a moment today when I was walking down the street to Jen's house and I said the few greetings I knew to a woman who was walking past. She tried to continue to talk to me and we both just laughed as those few phrases were all that I knew. It will take some time, but I'm trying.
Also, In comparison to my only other experience in a developing country; the medical work I did in Honduras, this place is much more advanced. The kids know how to read and write and some speak some English. When I worked with Shoulder to Shoulder in Santa Lucia in Honduras, it was a stretch to get food and water, let alone education.
I also love the blending of cultures here. This morning I woke up at 5am to a man singing over a loudspeaker possibly from a mosque. It sounded like prayer. Jenny tells me there really aren't any mosques close enough to her house, but in town there are numerous places of worship, church, mosque and temples.
I got to see a beautiful view of Kili yesterday from the rooftop of a hotel. It was amazing. I will have to come back here to climb it one day. We also went out for IndoItalian. Good pizza. Ha, I'd have to say it was better than San Francisco. The big joke though is how much everyone would love to have a burrito place in town. It seems that there is everything but.
Next week we are going on Safari and seeing some big game. I'm totally stoked. I'm also really excited to go to Zanzibar and work with Nanette at another clinic there.
Everything is wonderful. This has been an beautiful experience so far, and is only going to get better. I will try to post some photos, but it might be hard.

Friday, June 6, 2008

fish and chips










Photos:
Who where? You'll see the Owl in some of the photos. He's my trip mascot. Anyone got a name for him? Stonehenge, The London Eye, lucky ladybug that I tried to save from the capsule and Big Ben background, the family I'm staying with, the town of Bath, the ancient Roman Baths, some fun English folks I hung out with at Ye Ole Chesire Cheese Pub, and Ginger, Alex and Alex's parents. Im posting all of my photos on my flickr if you want to see more... unedited watch out.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lisa22/sets/

Overall thoughts on London:
The weather sucks, its the most expensive place I've ever been. The sights are grand, the coaches are tall, the beer is outstanding, the Tube is efficient, the free papers are horrifying, the people are kind, and there are a lot of roses to smell.

Cheers!
I'm spending my last afternoon in London doing a few chores. I don't mind as I feel as if I've spent all of my savings in this city. When people told me London was expensive and I believed them, but it's really amazing. Since the dollar sucks right now, you get about 50 cents to the £. So when you look at prices of things, just double it. And, I truly think that London is very focused on tourism and prices are fixed accordingly.
Whatever though, its only money and the experience has been amazing. I've been hanging with my new friends Mike, Nicki and their children Caleb and Leah. Its been a blast getting to know them and this city. Its so easy to get around here via the tube.
The last few days I've spent seeing the sights and drinking delicious beers. I also took a day trip to Bath and Stonehenge which is incredible.
It cost £45 for the bus/tickets to get into the Roman baths in the town of Bath. Not bad. I enjoy getting out of London and into the rolling green hills which remind me of New England. I suppose that's what the settlers thought when they arrived and named the North East coast of the United States.
So, we arrive in Bath and check out the Roman bath, temple and all that good juicy ancient historical stuff. Really awesome to learn how they filtered the pools, gilded statue heads of Minerva and generally put the whole thing together. It really makes you feel time in a way. Amazing Romans. Then the Victorians came along and did their thing which was not nearly impressive, but you can see the distinctions and it deepens that understanding of time. I will try to put a few pictures up.
So, the bus driver told us what time to meet up after our own time to check out the town. I wandered around and convinced myself I missed the bus. Maybe I missed the short bus. I spent some quality time on the green just enjoying the sunshine and other people enjoying the sunshine.
After Bath our bus headed off to Stonehenge and the most impressive thing, besides the architecture, was the actual bus driving itself. I really don't know how they get the buses in there. I don't know how the bus fits on the road or how it doesn't run into ancient buildings.
We arrive at Stonehenge which is so close to the road you can enjoy it and not spend the entrance fee. The audio guide was interesting, and its amazing to see what people can think up and set up with brains and brute force. I dug it. I really like the Barrows where there are big heaps of earth covering ancient 5000 year old graves.

Yesterday I checked out the London Eye, which was a really fun ride to the top of this ginormous Ferris wheel. I chatted with some Americans that gave me the whole who are you and why are you talking to me look. Its funny how people really don't understand that it is okay to travel a bit by yourself and you re not some crazy person.
And on that note, I bought myself a cheap wedding band yesterday. I'm marrying myself. Ha, no just kidding, I am going to wear it to fend off the men. It would have helped to wear it in London, but I think it will be most helpful for Africa and Thailand. I 'should' be married by this age and many people don't understand why a girl my age is traveling alone.
That being said I've enjoyed this week to myself, very glad I'm not married, and I'm so stoked to be heading out to Africa tonight. My friend Jenny is meeting me at the airport tomorrow. Folks - I'll try to call if and when I can, no worries.

I had the fish and chips. Good, but I'm not really into fried food. I think its funny they serve it with peas. I'm off to enjoy some more English beer.

Monday, June 2, 2008

Old Blighty

Hi everyone,
I'm having a fantastic time in England!
I'm going to keep this quick as there are so many things to see out there and I'd much rather be wandering around than typing.

I arrived and was warmly welcomed by Nicki, Mike, Leah and Caleb. They are friends of my dear friend Jono in San Francisco (Jono thanks for setting that up). The tube is so easy to use and I found their adorable home very easily. We chatted for a while and they fed me delicious Indian food before I went to bed early and enjoyed the deep sleep.
Its not a good idea to wander around all jet lagged and exhausted. I ended up passing out in the lobby of a hospital across from Big Ben. A very nice couple asked if I was okay, and I said I was, I simply couldn't keep my eyes open.

I had so much fun this weekend! I went up to Birmingham to visit my friend Faith. I met Faith while training on the Bay Bombers roller derby team in San Francisco. She now lives around Birmingham and is one of the amazing skaters on the Birmingham Blitz Derby Dames. I got to skate with many of them at a roller disco at Aston Uni. It was so much fun to meet them all, especially Ruth and Bee.
On Sunday I took the coach all the way back to London and hopped on a train to Letchworth Garden City to hang with Ginger and Alex. Ginger is a nurse friend whom I met at UCSF. Alex, well, not quite sure how to describe him, but he is a fantastic human being who has spent a lot of time traveling and gaining all that worldly knowledge. I spent the night at the home he grew up in with his parents. They cooked a fantastic feast - a traditional roast! It was delicious, and yes, I ate the beef. It was yummy. They made parsnips, carrots, cauliflower, peas, potatoes, Yorkshire pudding and I'm sure I'm forgetting something. It was fantastic. We sat around and had a lovely dinner. I enjoyed the suburbia and ability to walk into the gorgeously planned town.
I'm about to go explore a few sites that Alex suggested in London. Its somewhat raining here, but I don't care.
I'm going to take a day trip to Bath and Stonehenge on Wednesday. See some sites and then off to Africa.
Much love to you all!